As a handbag-obsessed editor, I’ve got an encyclopaedic memory when it comes to It bags. From vintage icons like the Chanel Flap Bag to more recent additions like The Row’s esteemed Margaux, it’s something I’ve studied at great length, as not only do I love the look of a bag, but the finer details, the thoughtful design motifs, and the cultural impact they’ve had along the way. Today, I’m focused on one such bag that took the fashion world by storm and has now returned for autumn/winter 2025.
Let’s take it back for a moment. It’s the middle of the spring/summer 2005 runways, and Fendi’s catwalk is about to start. The lights come up and the show begins. A parade of models takes to the stage in a wash of colourful summer looks, each carrying the latest addition to Fendi’s impeccable bag collection—the Fendi Spy Bag had been unveiled.
The effect was immediate. Waiting lists began to fill up as every celebrity and stylish person wanted to add the House’s newest icon to their collections. As soon as it was released, the bag was consistently spotted on well-known names from Ashley Olsen to Sarah Jessica Parker. Two decades later, the appeal for the bag hasn’t wavered, with avid bag collectors searching resale sites for a second chance at this piece, and even Bella Hadid was spotted carrying a vintage version in 2022. With twenty years of legacy behind it, Fendi has relaunched the Spy Bag for 2025. As it’s already been spotted on the arms of celebrities and fashion people, I wanted to put this reimagined It bag to the test.
A Deep Review of the New Fendi Spy Bag
Gaining icon status for an accessory is a major feat in itself; an even greater one is to gain the title on a reissued style. But in my opinion, Fendi has a head start with the distinctive silhouette of the bag. The dumpling shape alongside the sleek double handle and soft form embodied the bohemian mood of the time, and one that we’re seeing revived for 2025. You just have to look to the rise of blouses, ruffles and floaty boho dresses to see that a similar aesthetic is making waves right now, perfectly aligned with the bags’ relaunch.
The look and feel of the bag remains true to the original design, notably the blend of refined craftspersonship and the joyful creative talents of Silvia Venturini. The securing flap has a hidden compartment for your most treasured possessions, a nod to the secretive connotations of the name of the bag. In mine, I stored a lip gloss close to hand.
(Image credit: Who What Wear UK)
The most notable change to the bag comes in the look. Fitting for its debut in the early 2000’s the bag was launched in neutral colourways along with metallics and two-tone versions. In the following fall collection, the Spy Bag was redesigned with velvet finishes, bead embroidery and bold prints. In the twenty-year interlude since launch, there have been various shifts in the fashion sphere and a distinct change in mood. Whilst bold designs will always have their place, the quietening of fashion that arose in the past few years has retained its power over style, with a less-is-more appeal being the highest form of luxury.
Void of logos and patterns, the new Fendi Spy Bag is much more subtle, concentrating on smooth, refined leather, an eye-catching silhouette and a considered palette. Currently, the bag is available in classic neutrals, accent pastel shades and a shearling iteration. Eagle-eyed onlookers will have also spotted a few new additions on the autumn/winter 2025 runways, including an incredibly elegant deep green and patent black. The previously woven handles have also been updated with a fresh twist design, adding to the timeless appeal of the bag that ensures that twenty years from now, we’ll still be talking about the Fendi Spy Bag.
Is the Fendi Spy Bag Worth It?
As an avid collector of handbags, it’s important for me to not just tell you about how great a piece looks, but also how it works in everyday life. There are some bags that are savoured for special occasions, often impractical in size or slightly awkward to hold. Not the Fendi Spy Bag.
The bag has been launched in two sizes: small and regular. I was able to get a sample of the smaller version, and it joined me for a day in the office with a lunch meeting and a trip across town to view a new collection. In terms of size, the small version makes for the perfect everyday bag, with a surprising amount of room inside for your wallet, sunglasses case, Kindle and water bottle. Of course, I had to put to use the hidden coin pocket in the flap, which can hold small treasures.
(Image credit: Who What Wear UK)
One of my most immediate impressions of this bag was just how comfortable it is to use. The smaller size isn’t really designed to go over the shoulder, so I found myself carrying it in hand, in the crook of my elbow, and wearing it crossbody with the longer detachable strap. The smooth leather and padded twist handles, along with the soft silhouette, allow the bag to move and mould whichever way you tote this bag around. I also tried out the crossbody option. The thin leather strap is subtle in its look, and also adjustable to get the right length across the body. The soft silhouette excels here, ensuring the bag sits comfortably on the wearer.
On top of the flap is a subtle gold-embossed Fendi logo, but this isn’t the only outward sign of a luxury piece. The silhouette, the look of the leather and composition all come together to exude a premium feel, even for those who wouldn’t immediately recognise the Spy Bag by its shape. I also adore the addition of the Fendi jacquard monogram on the lining, a nod to the brand’s rich history, and in line with the secretive elements, as it’s only flashed when the bag is opened.
(Image credit: Who What Wear UK)
Ease is another key factor I look for with any investment buy. First is the physical ease of this bag. As I’m always on the go, having access to my essentials is a must. The closure of the bag is the flap itself with a hidden magnet inside the body to keep your pieces secure, whilst still offering easy access on the go. The second element of ease comes in with how it styles with different outfits. It’s a piece that can easily transition from day to night thanks to its luxurious look, especially in the more neutral colourways.
For a relaunched It bag, the stakes are higher. The piece already holds a legacy that a new style has to live up to, but I personally believe that Fendi has. The bag feels like an older sister of the original version. It has the same DNA, but is even more refined and more grown-up in its look and feel. Sitting alongside other brand icons such as the Peekaboo and the Baguette, it’s a bag that I expect we’ll see a lot more of in the coming months, and will probably still be talking about in another twenty years.
Fendi Spy Bag Key Information
Small Bag Information
Colours: Black, Beige, Green, Yellow, Pink
Main Material: Calfskin Leather
Height: 18 cm
Depth: 12 cm
Width: 32 cm
Weight: 0.76 kg
Should Strap Drop: 58 cm
Regular Bag Information
Colours: Black, Brown, Beige
Main Material: Calfskin Leather
Height: 22 cm
Depth: 20 cm
Width: 48 cm
Weight: 1.21 kh
Shop the Fendi Spy Bag
Fendi
Fendi Spy Smallblack Leather Bag
If you ask me, a black bag is always a sound investment.
Fendi
Fendi Spy Smallpink Leather Bag
Saying that, how pretty is this pink shade.
Fendi
Fendi Spy Smallbeige Leather Bag
A sleek way to lift more muted outfits.
Fendi
Fendi Spyblack Leather Bag
The generous size means this bag is well equipped to handle all of your essentials.
Fendi
Fendi Spydark Brown Leather Bag
A brown bag is one of the chicest items of the season.
Fendi
Fendi Spybeige Leather Bag
Picture this with a cream coat and burgundy boots.
