Fashion-obsessed folk would call labdanum perfumes the olfactory equivalent of a leather jacket—a capsule piece that ties everything together, adding an edgy yet effortlessly cool touch to just about any look. But what exactly is a labdanum fragrance? And why is it beloved by the industry’s most noteworthy experts? Let me fill you in.
What Is Labdanum?
A labdanum fragrance is a complex, warm, and resinous scent derived from the sticky resin of the rockrose plant, Cistus ladanifer. Designed to protect the plant’s leaves from the sun, it has a sweet and ambery scent, distinguished by hints of leather and honey, that perfumers have fallen for.
In fact, in the modern world of perfumery, labdanum is often regarded as the backbone of a unique fragrance—the kind that gives it an amber-like warmth and a “dark” touch. According to Emma South, Fragrance & Lifestyle Expert at Jo Malone London, this underrated perfume note “will always bring depth and longevity to a formula,” creating a multi-faceted blend that is anything but predictable.
(Image credit: Future)
How Should I Wear a Labdanum Perfume?
As a perfume-obsessed beauty editor, I consider labdanum to have a chameleon-like nature. When blended with a gourmand profile, it embraces its honey undetones while also adding an ambery edge to tie everything together.
Elsewhere, it can skew more bold and leathery, especially when blended with notes of patchouli or oud. It can headline as much as it can play the role of a back-up singer, which is exactly what makes it the kind of note that can adapt to any ensemble.
Long story short, in my opinion, labdanum fragrances are not to be slept on. So, if you’ve grown tired of viral scents that are easily recognisable and are looking for a perfume that’s truly unique, look no further. Below, is my tried-and-true edit of the best labdanum perfumes that I reach for, rain or shine.
The Best Labdanum Perfumes, Reviewed By a Beauty Editor
Le Labo
Labdanum 18 Eau de Parfum
Key Notes: Labdanum, Tonka Bean, Vanilla, Civet, Birch, Patchouli
This perfume is, hands down, one of the most unique scents I’ve ever had the pleasure of sniffing. To me, it smells like wearing your boyfriend’s vintage leather jacket to a candlelit jazz bar—understated, a little rugged, and ever-so-slightly animalic. As it opens, it greets you with a resinous burst of labdanum and a dark hit of patchouli, before revealing a soft, velvety heart of tonka bean and vanilla. But personally, I think the base is where it truly shines, leaving a warm whisper of incense and a musky trail that lingers for hours.
Jo Malone
Amber Labdanum Cologne Intense
Key notes: Bitter Orange, Labdanum, Amber
If Le Labo is your after-dark jacket, Jo Malone London’s Amber Labdanum Cologne Intense is more of a tailored trench you can wear anywhere—a great everyday scent that feels elevated yet effortlessly cool. Opening with a citrusy kick of bitter orange, it quickly melts into the heart of labdanum, wrapped in a warm glow of amber. Its smooth yet striking presence makes it just as fitting to wear for a job interview as it would be on a date night.
Orebella
Nightcap Eau de Parfum
Key notes: Ginger, Cardamom, Vanilla, Labdanum, Cistus, Sandalwood, Patchouli
I have to give credit where credit is due: Bella Hadid may have created the best autumnal fragrance there is—packed with warmth, spice, and sweetness. Enter: Nightcap, a fragrance that smells like a comforting sip of a chai latte. Ginger and cardamom set the tone with a sharp, spiced kick, before melting into creamy vanilla, labdanum and musky cistus. The dry-down is a bit dark and sensual, courtesy of sandalwood and patchouli, making it a solid pick for a date night.
Amouage
Guidance Eau de Parfum
Key Notes: Pear, Hazelnut, Osmanthus, Rose, Saffron, Labdanum, Sandalwood, Ambergris
“It’s very important to know that Guidance is as punchy as you might expect a Middle Eastern fragrance to be. One or two sprays are all you need for a scent that will follow you around all day long,” says Who What Wear Beauty Director Shannon Lawlor. But longevity is far from the only reason why every in-the-know fragrance lover can’t get enough of it. I, for one, adore its complex nature. It blends notes you wouldn’t expect to see together (juicy pear, nutty hazelnut, saffron, labdanum, sandalwood and a hit of florals) yet somehow it all comes together seamlessly. The result is a rich, radiant blend laced with a bit of spice and a creamy edge, leaving behind a compliment-worthy trail that feels both opulent and modern.
Maison Crivelli
Oud Cadenza Extrait de Parfum
Key Notes: Saffron, Cinnamon, Cardamom, Nutmeg, Ginger, Pink Pepper, Dates, Oud, Myrrh, Cacao Butter, Musk, Labdanum
Exclusive to Harrods, Oud Cadenza by Maison Crivelli is not your average oudy scent. Spiced with saffron, cinnamon, and ginger, it’s bold at the start but softened by caramelised dates and a gentle touch of vanilla. It creates a punchy blend that’s rounded with the warmth of labdanum, leaving a resinous, smoky trail that feels like a statement piece. Truly one of the most unique oudy perfumes in my collection.
Byredo Slow Dance Eau De Parfum
Key Notes: Opoponax, Geranium, Labdanum, Violet, Vanilla, Patchouli, Incense
Slow Dance leans into the more darker and mysterious side of labdanum, and I have to admit — it wasn’t exactly a “love at first spritz” situation as I generally steer clear of smoky scents. But the more time I spent with it, the more it revealed its intoxicating nature. As it softens, you’re hit with a chic floral bouquet of violet and geranium and a touch of labdanum, while vanilla smooths the base into something comforting and soft, but with a subtle twist of patchouli. It’s a real confidence booster, which is exactly why I’ve worn it a handful of times for job interviews.
Why Trust Us
At Who What Wear UK, we know that beauty isn’t one-size-fits-all. Our editors have tested thousands of products over the years—spanning skincare, makeup, hair and nails—and work closely with trusted experts including dermatologists, makeup artists and leading industry insiders to ensure every guide is well-researched, inclusive and relevant to you.
We focus on formulas that deliver, whether they’re affordable favourites or luxury investments. Our product selection is based on tangible results, ingredient know-how and what we’d truly recommend to a friend.
